Retinol,

It's really hot these days..

Not only in Korea, but abroad it has always been

a very popular product (U.S.)

These days people in Korea and Japan are really

1. looking for it lol

When you apply retinol, your skin peels— is that okay?

💡 Check this before reading


Q. If your skin flakes after applying retinol, does that mean your skin is damaged?

A. No. It's a normal reaction caused by the faster cell turnover cycle, and it's actually a sign that retinol is working properly.


Q. Then can I keep using it no matter how much it peels?

A. Not exactly. 'Retinoid reaction' and 'irritation reaction' are completely different. If you don't know the difference, you can damage your skin.

"Skin peeling is not a side effect - do you know retinol's real mechanism?"

— Director Wi Young-jin (Beautystone Clinic in Hongdae)

What exactly is retinol?

Retinol (Retinol) is

a form of vitamin A,

that speeds up the turnover of skin cells

and improves signs of aging such as

wrinkles, pigmentation, and pores.

It's really hot these days..

Not only in Korea, but abroad it has always been

a very popular product (U.S.)

These days people in Korea and Japan are really

looking for it lol

Unlike prescription drugs such as tretinoin,

retinol can also be included in cosmetics,

so it's much more accessible.

But here's where a problem comes up.

Because it's so easy to access,

there are really a lot of people who

"just apply it first without knowing the mechanism."

If the skin peels, is that a side effect? That's a misunderstanding

To be honest,

when you first apply retinol and get peeling,

nine out of ten people worry, "Is this right?"

But once you know what this reaction is,

your thinking changes completely.

The epidermal cells of our skin

normally renew on a 28-day cycle.

New cells are created in the basal layer at the very bottom,

then pushed upward, becoming dead skin cells

and naturally shedding off.

What retinol does

is 'accelerate' this cycle.

When retinol is absorbed into the skin,

it passes through retinal

and is ultimately converted into retinoic acid.

This retinoic acid binds to receptors in the cell nucleus

and sends the signal to

"increase the cell division speed."

Then what happens?

The renewal cycle that used to take 28 days

shortens to about 14 to 20 days.

As new cells rise quickly,

the old dead skin cells above

are all pushed off at once.

This is exactly what you see as

"skin peeling."

In other words, it's not that the skin is damaged,

it's because new cells are rising too quickly from below

and the old dead skin on top can't hold on

and falls away.

Medically, this is called

Retinoid Dermatitis

.

It's not a side effect,

it's a transitional reaction as the skin adapts.

It usually settles in 2 to 6 weeks.

But here's one important thing.

Retinoid reaction and irritation reaction are

completely different.

This is something many people misunderstand,

If you look at the table below,

the difference will really stand out.

A little flaking

is proof that retinol is working,

but if your skin turns red

and feels stinging or starts oozing,

that means the skin barrier has collapsed.

If you can't tell the difference,

you may end up saying,

"You have to endure it for it to work,"

and damage your skin even more.

👨‍⚕️ Director Wi Young-jin's key takeaway:


When you apply retinol, the cell turnover speed increases and the old dead skin is pushed out. This is not damage; it's closer to a 'generation turnover.'


However, burning, rash, and oozing are not normal reactions. If you don't know this boundary, retinol can become harmful instead.

Concentration, formulation, and how to use it all vary by case

What's a little tricky is,

"Will 0.5% retinol be enough?"

many people ask.

But even at the same 0.5%,

whether it's encapsulated retinol,

or free retinol,

the actual active concentration that reaches the skin is different.

It differs by case,

but I usually explain it like this.

The key is to start at a low concentration

and increase it once the skin adapts.

And there's one thing I absolutely need to tell you,

retinol breaks down easily in UV light.

So you must apply it at night,

and sunscreen the next morning is essential.

If you skip that,

retinol applied to improve pigmentation

can actually make pigmentation worse,

creating the opposite effect.

And one more thing.

If your skin is dry when you apply retinol,

the irritation will hit much harder.

So I usually say,

apply moisturizer first

and put retinol on top of it,

that's how I guide patients.

This is called Buffering,

and the moisturizing layer acts as a cushion,

reducing irritation even at the same concentration

while allowing the active ingredient to sink in more slowly.

But this isn't all good either

Retinol is considered the

'gold standard' anti-aging ingredient.

But the limitations are clear.

First, it takes

at least 8 to 12 weeks before the effects appear.

It's not an ingredient that makes your skin look better right away.

And deep wrinkles that are already set in,

or pigmentation that has gone down into the dermis,

can't be solved with retinol alone.

In these cases,

you need to combine it with procedures like

laser toning or Fraxel to get real change.

That said, for people starting to show early signs of aging,

those whose pores have enlarged and skin texture has become rough,

and those bothered by fine lines,

it's still the most proven home-care ingredient.

I also often prescribe retinol in the clinic as post-procedure care,

but even then,

I always adjust the concentration and formulation depending on the skin condition.

"Just buy any famous one and use it"

is absolutely not the right approach.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1. Can I use retinol and AHA/BHA together?

A. If you layer them on the same night,

the irritation can be doubled.

If you want to use both,

it's safer to alternate them on different days.

For example, Monday/Wednesday/Friday retinol,

Tuesday/Thursday AHA, like that.

Q2. How long do I need to use retinol to see results?

A. Many people start to feel skin texture improvement from about 4 to 6 weeks,

and for wrinkles or pigmentation,

you need to use it consistently for 8 to 12 weeks or more.

If you quit after 2 weeks because "it doesn't work,"

that would be a shame.

Q3. My skin got too sensitive after using retinol—what should I do?

A. First, stop using it

and apply moisturizer generously.

If it calms down within 2 to 3 days,

you can restart with a lower concentration or less frequent use.

But if redness and stinging continue for more than 3 days,

the skin barrier may have collapsed,

so it's right to get checked by a dermatologist.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact us by KakaoTalk or phone. This has been Wi Young-jin.

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