Dark skin,

laser hair removal

is not all the same

You should not think that

Director Wi Young-jin of Beautystone Clinic, BeautyS Doctor Hongdae

Please check this before reading

Q. If the machine is good,

isn't laser hair removal the same regardless of skin type?

A. No. The darker the skin,

the more likely an incorrect wavelength choice can cause burns or

hyperpigmentation.

The wavelength (nm) is

far more important than the machine brand.

Q. Then for dark skin,

which wavelength should be used?

A. The 1064nm wavelength is

much safer because it reduces melanin response compared to 755nm.

Key points of this article

For dark skin, 1064nm is safer

than 755nm.

The GentleMax device used at Beautystone

uses both wavelengths

to increase safety.

What is laser hair removal?

Laser hair removal (Laser Hair Removal) is

a procedure that absorbs light of a specific wavelength into melanin in the hair follicle

and destroys the follicle with heat.

Unlike conventional IPL, which uses a broad spectrum of light,

laser hair removal precisely targets a single wavelength

and selectively strikes only the follicle.

Why do different wavelengths

produce completely different results?

Laser hair removal

ultimately works by the principle of 'absorbing light into melanin'

.

The problem is that melanin is not only

in the hair follicle.

It is also in the skin itself, that is, the epidermis.

That is why wavelength selection is key.

The 755nm wavelength, that is, the Alexandrite laser,

has a very high melanin absorption rate.

This means it is highly effective, but

at the same time, for people with darker skin,

it can overreact with epidermal melanin as well,

which means there is a risk of burns or hyperpigmentation.

In contrast, the 1064nm wavelength, the Nd:YAG laser,

has a relatively low melanin absorption rate.

It stimulates epidermal melanin less,

and penetrates deeper to target the follicle.

The darker the skin, the greater the risk with 755nm

that the 'skin will burn too,'

while 1064nm is closer to a structure that

'doesn't touch the epidermis and only hits the follicle.'

But there is one important thing here.

Is 1064nm alone always safe?

That is not true either.

Because the wavelength penetrates deeper,

energy control is important,

and follicle destruction efficiency may be lower than with 755nm.

So the most practical solution is to

combine the two wavelengths appropriately.

To be honest, many clinics

apply a protocol centered on 755nm even to

patients with dark skin.

They just lower the energy.

But if you lower the energy, the effect also drops.

Trying to be safe can end up making hair removal

ineffective.

Director Wi Young-jin's key summary:

When it comes to laser hair removal,

the wavelength (nm) comes before the machine brand.

If 755nm is used on dark skin,

epidermal melanin overreacts,

creating a risk of burns and hyperpigmentation.

1064nm stimulates the epidermis less

and acts more precisely on the follicle,

so 1064nm should be

the standard for dark skin.

Comparison by wavelength —

which choice is right for my skin?

For first-time visitors, we classify the type

based on the Fitzpatrick skin type.

If it is type 4 or higher, the energy is set

with a greater emphasis on 1064nm,

and types 1–3 use 755nm as the default.

The GentleMax device used at Beautystone

can use both wavelengths in one device,

so the wavelength is applied differently by skin area,

and by type.

For example, for the same person, the abdomen might use 755nm,

while the bikini area or darker pigmented areas might use 1064nm,

with different settings.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1. I tend to tan a lot in the summer,

when should I schedule hair removal?

A. Generally, fall to winter, when UV exposure decreases,

is the most advantageous time.

If you are tanned in the summer, epidermal melanin

is elevated, which increases the risk of side effects.

Please visit after at least 4 weeks of sun protection,

or if unavoidable, set the treatment conservatively,

mainly using 1064nm.

Q2. For dark skin,

about how many sessions does it take to see results?

A. It varies by individual,

but we usually consider 6–8 sessions as the benchmark.

Compared with 755nm, the 1064nm wavelength

may have slightly lower single-session efficiency,

so a few more sessions may be needed.

What matters most is keeping a 4–6 week interval

in line with the hair growth cycle.

Q3. You said 1064nm laser is safe, but

are there no side effects at all?

A. It is difficult to say there are none at all.

Incorrect energy settings or

poor UV care after the procedure

can cause temporary hyperpigmentation.

Cooling immediately after the procedure and

applying sunscreen are essential.

That was Wi Young-jin.

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