Black, brown, or tanned skin? 755nm can raise the risk of burns and dark spots in laser hair removal. See why 1064nm is safer and how Beautystone sets it.
Published
Updated

Author
Wi Young-jin · Chief director
Seoul National University College of Medicine · Seoul National University Hospital Specialist
→
![[Wi Young-jin Column] Dark Skin Needs 1064nm Laser](https://framerusercontent.com/images/J3Hmh8So7zcmEJGTSdtBK2JkiiM.png)
Director Wi Young-jin, Beautystone Clinic Hongdae
If you have Black, brown, or deeply tanned skin, the question to ask before booking laser hair removal is simple: which wavelength will be used on me? On dark skin, the 755nm wavelength reacts strongly with melanin in the skin itself, which can lead to burns or hyperpigmentation. The 1064nm wavelength reacts less with that surface melanin, so it is the safer default for dark skin. Safer does not mean side-effect free. Energy settings, sun exposure, and aftercare still matter.
Here is how to think it through, in the order most people decide.
Is laser hair removal safe on dark skin?
Q. If the machine is good, does skin type still matter?
A. Yes. The darker the skin, the more a wrong wavelength choice can cause burns or hyperpigmentation. The wavelength (nm) matters far more than the machine brand.
Q. So which wavelength fits dark skin?
A. 1064nm. It triggers less melanin response than 755nm, which makes it much safer for darker skin.
The GentleMax device used at Beautystone has both wavelengths, 755nm and 1064nm, in one machine. That lets the settings follow your skin instead of the other way around.

How does laser hair removal work?
Laser hair removal sends light at a specific wavelength into the melanin inside the hair follicle. The light turns into heat, and the heat damages the follicle.
Conventional IPL uses a broad spectrum of light. A laser aims a single wavelength precisely, so it can target the follicle selectively.

Why do 755nm and 1064nm behave so differently on dark skin?
Laser hair removal works by getting melanin to absorb light. The catch is that melanin is not only in the follicle. It is also in the skin itself, in the epidermis. That is why the wavelength choice is the key decision.
755nm (Alexandrite laser). Melanin absorbs it very well. That makes it strong, but on darker skin it can also overreact with melanin in the epidermis. The result can be burns or hyperpigmentation. Put simply, the skin can get hit along with the hair.
1064nm (Nd:YAG laser). Melanin absorbs it relatively less. It stimulates surface melanin less and goes deeper to reach the follicle. It works closer to the idea of leaving the epidermis alone and hitting the follicle.
Does that mean 1064nm alone is always safe? No. Because it goes deeper, energy control matters. Its follicle-destroying efficiency can also be lower than 755nm. So the most practical answer is to combine the two wavelengths appropriately.
One approach to dark skin is to keep a 755nm-centered protocol and simply lower the energy. The trouble is that lower energy also means a weaker effect. Trying to stay safe can end with hair removal that does not really work.
Director Wi Young-jin's summary: wavelength before brand
When it comes to laser hair removal, the wavelength (nm) comes before the machine brand.
If 755nm is used on dark skin, melanin in the epidermis can overreact, creating a risk of burns and hyperpigmentation.
1064nm stimulates the epidermis less and acts more precisely on the follicle. For dark skin, 1064nm should be the standard.

Which wavelength is right for my skin?
Category | 755nm (Alexandrite) | 1064nm (Nd:YAG) | Dual wavelength (GentleMax, etc.) |
Melanin absorption | High | Low | Chosen to fit the situation |
Light skin | Suitable | Possible | Mainly 755nm |
Dark skin | Risk of burns | Suitable | Mainly 1064nm |
Penetration depth | Shallow to medium | Deep | Can be combined |
Thick, deep follicles | Average | Advantageous | Very advantageous |
On a first visit, we classify your skin using the Fitzpatrick skin type scale. For type 4 or higher, the energy is set with more weight on 1064nm. Types 1 to 3 start with 755nm as the default.
Because the GentleMax at Beautystone runs both wavelengths in one device, the wavelength can change by body area and by skin type. For the same person, the abdomen might be treated with 755nm, while the bikini area or more pigmented areas get 1064nm with different settings.
Depth matters too. 755nm and 1064nm reach different depths, so they suit different kinds of hair. For men whose hair is very thick, or who say earlier hair removal did not clear it well, the follicles are likely to sit deeper, so 1064nm is mixed in. This is a guide to how the wavelength is chosen, not a promise of results.

Frequently Asked Questions
Q1. I tan a lot in summer. When should I schedule laser hair removal?
A. Fall to winter, when UV exposure drops, is generally the most favorable time. If you are tanned from summer, melanin in the epidermis is elevated, which raises the risk of side effects. Visit after at least 4 weeks of sun protection. If you cannot wait, the treatment should be set conservatively, mainly with 1064nm.
Q2. How many sessions does dark skin usually need?
A. It varies from person to person, but 6 to 8 sessions is the usual benchmark. 1064nm may be slightly less efficient per session than 755nm, so a few more sessions may be needed. Most important is keeping a 4 to 6 week interval that follows the hair growth cycle.
Q3. If 1064nm is safer, does it have no side effects at all?
A. We cannot say there are none. Incorrect energy settings, or poor UV care after the procedure, can cause temporary hyperpigmentation. Cooling right after the procedure and applying sunscreen are the basics.
Q4. My hair is very thick. Does that change the wavelength?
A. It can. Very thick hair is likely to sit deeper, so 1064nm may be mixed in. The final setting depends on your skin type and the area being treated.
That was Wi Young-jin.

Contouring & Volume
Hip Dip Filler Before and After: 4 Checks

Body
Potenza Treatment Interval: Why 4 Weeks?

Lifting
Ultherapy Before and After: Why Wait 90 Days?

Contouring & Volume
Belotero Revive Cost: 2cc Price vs. 3 Sessions

skin
Lip Hyperpigmentation Laser: Does It Work?

Contouring & Volume
Men's Forehead Filler: Hollow or Just Lines?






