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Retinol Isn't a Retinoid—Don't Be Fooled

Retinol Isn't a Retinoid—Don't Be Fooled

Retinol Isn't a Retinoid—Don't Be Fooled

Why retinoids differ in strength: skin layer science, retinol vs. tretinoin, and how to choose.

Published -

Updated -

Beautystone Clinic, Wi Young-jin, Chief director

Author

Wi Young-jin · Chief director

Seoul National University College of Medicine · Seoul National University Hospital Specialist

Retinol Isn't a Retinoid—Don't Be Fooled

Don't believe the claim that retinol is the same as a retinoid,Don't believe it




Director Wi Young-jin of Beauty's Doctor · Former Seoul National University specialist




 

Check this before you read




Q. Aren't retinol and retinoid basically the same thing?

A. No. Both are vitamin A derivatives, but

the way they pass through the stratum corneum is completely different.

So the irritation and the results are different too.




Q. Why is it that even though they're both vitamin A the concentration and strength vary so much?

A. Because the skin's stratum corneum acts as a 'gate'.

The key is how it passes through that gate.




 

Key points of this article

Retinol, retinoid, tretinoin,

the reason concentrations and strengths differ is the stratum corneum.




Key points of this article

 

 



What is a retinoid?

Retinoid (Retinoid) is an umbrella term for vitamin A

and its derivatives.




In simple terms, retinol is a retinoid, and

tretinoin is also a retinoid.




But here's the part many people misunderstand:

you can't put an equals sign between

'retinoid = retinol'.




Retinoid is the 'family name',

and retinol, retinal, and tretinoin are the

'individual names' within that family.




The differences among these individuals are

much bigger than you might think.




And the key factor that creates those differences

is the stratum corneum.




What is a retinoid?

 

 



The real reason concentrations and strengths differ — the gate called the stratum corneum

At the very outermost layer of the skin is a

very thin protective barrier called the stratum corneum.




It's only about src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/IoRtBJSn4w4oVmE5H0IInpAc78.jpg".src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/npEipHMfngSY1GSyn7GEkMf2c.jpg"~src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/IoRtBJSn4w4oVmE5H0IInpAc78.jpg".src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/80cCa9vEpkhe5yFeM1MuwmGDg.jpg"mm thick,

and this thin layer blocks most external substances.

That is its role.




This means that even good ingredients for the skin must

pass through this stratum corneum to reach the dermis.




Retinol passes through the stratum corneum and then

undergoes two conversion steps inside the skin.




Retinol → retinal → tretinoin (retinoic acid)

The active form that ultimately acts on skin cells is

tretinoin.




Each time retinol is converted, some of its potency is lost.




Absorption also drops as it passes through the stratum corneum,

and conversion efficiency varies from person to person.




By contrast, tretinoin is already the active form itself.




No conversion process is needed.

Even though both are vitamin A, retinol src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/IoRtBJSn4w4oVmE5H0IInpAc78.jpg".href="/blog/seoul-fat-reduction-injection-hongdae"% and

tretinoin src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/IoRtBJSn4w4oVmE5H0IInpAc78.jpg".undefined% are not comparable in terms of

strength.




Director Wi Young-jin's key summary




Retinol must pass through the stratum corneum

and go through two conversions to be effective.




Tretinoin works immediately without conversion,

so it's faster, but also more irritating.




Which form is right for your skin

depends on the state of your skin barrier.




Director Wi Young-jin's key summary

 

 



Retinol vs retinal vs tretinoin comparison

Category

Retinol

Retinal

Tretinoin

Conversion steps

src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/80cCa9vEpkhe5yFeM1MuwmGDg.jpg" steps needed

src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/npEipHMfngSY1GSyn7GEkMf2c.jpg" step needed

No conversion needed

Effect strength

Mild

Moderate

Powerful

Irritation level

Low

Moderate

High

How to buy

Cosmetics

Cosmetics

Prescription drug (prescription)

Time to notice effects

href="/blog/coretox-effect-duration-truth"~undefined weeks

src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/1jVFpJqPyvNyqDS5o8PJFn48RIg.jpg"~href="/blog/coretox-effect-duration-truth" weeks

src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/80cCa9vEpkhe5yFeM1MuwmGDg.jpg"~src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/1jVFpJqPyvNyqDS5o8PJFn48RIg.jpg" weeks



Guidance by case




src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/npEipHMfngSY1GSyn7GEkMf2c.jpg". Who should start with retinol




If you're new to vitamin A ingredients,

or have thin, sensitive skin.

Start at around src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/IoRtBJSn4w4oVmE5H0IInpAc78.jpg".src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/npEipHMfngSY1GSyn7GEkMf2c.jpg"~src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/IoRtBJSn4w4oVmE5H0IInpAc78.jpg".src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/UhPSW9pz6aW0rQFf3IlbOaASec.jpg"% and gradually increase.




src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/80cCa9vEpkhe5yFeM1MuwmGDg.jpg". Who can move on to retinal




Those who have used retinol src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/IoRtBJSn4w4oVmE5H0IInpAc78.jpg".href="/blog/seoul-fat-reduction-injection-hongdae"% or more

for over src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/UhPSW9pz6aW0rQFf3IlbOaASec.jpg" months without any problems.

You'll notice the effects much faster.




src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/UhPSW9pz6aW0rQFf3IlbOaASec.jpg". Who needs tretinoin




Those who actively want to improve acne scars, deep pigmentation,

and wrinkles.

You must get a prescription.




For tretinoin, the initial src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/80cCa9vEpkhe5yFeM1MuwmGDg.jpg"~src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/UhPSW9pz6aW0rQFf3IlbOaASec.jpg" weeks are really tough.




If you get through the peeling and stinging phase,

you can see improvements in skin tone and elasticity.




src=

 

 



src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/UhPSW9pz6aW0rQFf3IlbOaASec.jpg" things you must follow when using retinoids




src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/npEipHMfngSY1GSyn7GEkMf2c.jpg". Sun protection is absolutely essential




As the stratum corneum becomes thinner, the skin becomes more vulnerable to UV rays,

so you must apply sunscreen with SPF undefined or higher.




src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/80cCa9vEpkhe5yFeM1MuwmGDg.jpg". Moisturize first, retinoid on top




If you're a beginner, I recommend the

'sandwich method' of layering retinoid over moisturizer.




src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/UhPSW9pz6aW0rQFf3IlbOaASec.jpg". Don't use it every day at first




Start src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/80cCa9vEpkhe5yFeM1MuwmGDg.jpg"~src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/UhPSW9pz6aW0rQFf3IlbOaASec.jpg" times a week, then move to every other day once you adapt,

and then daily use; that's the safest approach.




 

Frequently asked questions




Qsrc="https://framerusercontent.com/images/npEipHMfngSY1GSyn7GEkMf2c.jpg". Can I switch directly from retinol to tretinoin?

The irritation is strong. Take about a week off retinol, then

start tretinoin at the lowest concentration, twice a week.




Qsrc="https://framerusercontent.com/images/80cCa9vEpkhe5yFeM1MuwmGDg.jpg". How long do I need to use it to see results?

Retinol becomes noticeable after href="/blog/coretox-effect-duration-truth"~undefined weeks, and tretinoin after src="https://framerusercontent.com/images/1jVFpJqPyvNyqDS5o8PJFn48RIg.jpg"~href="/blog/coretox-effect-duration-truth" weeks,

but wrinkle improvement requires

consistent use for over href="/blog/beard-laser-pain-level" months.




Qsrc="https://framerusercontent.com/images/UhPSW9pz6aW0rQFf3IlbOaASec.jpg". Does using retinoids thin the skin?

That's the most common misconception. The stratum corneum may thin, but

the dermis becomes thicker as collagen synthesis is promoted,

so in fact it thickens.







WhatsApp consultation before your visit is also available.

This has been Wi Young-jin.







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